Week 2 Task

Week 2 Task

On Thursday 26 august  Mr Riza was just briefing is about MIB. After he's done giving us an introduction of the class, he shared with us a video by Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011. We also were assigned to write what we have observed from the video in terms of the making process of the dress for the Dior collection.

Here's the link to watch it:

Dior Haute Couture 2011

My observation:

• firstly, they start off by making the toile. They prepared the toile to test the pattern. It was also been prepared for the embroidery part so it'd be easier for the embroidery to identify the size of the design as well as the placement.

• Then, they take some pieces of the original toile or pattern to be traced on the actual fabric.

• When making clothes for couture, chalks are rarely used and threading is preferred. chalks are only for the wrong side of the fabric.

• Accuracy is important when making a couture dress because every piece of the pattern must be fitted together like a puzzle.

• They use a white triple orange to interface the collar. The used of it is a reinforcement that will give the garment its hold and stiffness.

• Large flounce also interface with organza

• They layer the tulle fabric on the base fabric to create a gradient/ shadow effect on the dress.

• They also place a layer of organza on the collar to give a nice effect.

• They also sew the interfacing inside the fabric using catch stitch to keep it slightly apart from the seam allowance.
• Once the toile has been cut and the pattern has been traced the toile will be sent to the embroiderer

• The embroiderer continues working on the embroidery on the tulle fabric while the dressmakers were still working on the dress.

• They keep fitting the fabric onto the dummy piece by piece after each pattern has been fully interfaced

• Some pieces can only be assembled by hand. a piece that fits under the basque is a structural element called technical Basque. It holds all the pleats in the skirt which are too having to work sewn directly to the basque.

• Slowly the coat is crafted

• Then the taylor carefully fit it on the. The right sleeve is made with red silk interfaced with organza but the left sleeve is covered with 5 layers of black tulle.

• After hours of work, everything is pinned and pleated

• At the pleating studio, Dior has ordered 16 sunray pleats that flare out like the setting sun.

• The sunray pleats Starr from the tips because it's a quarter of circumference: a full bias cut, which flares out. you'll see panels on the top side of the coat but mostly on the inside when the client opens the coat. there'll be a loose, very elastic effect

• The taylors continue working on the flounces.

• They also proceed with making skirts when pleated fabrics have arrived.

• Then the embroiderer came to present his studio work in person.

• At this point, they were ready to fit all of the embroidered pieces into the coat.

• One by one the toile was put in place and a full vision of the coat is starting to emerge.

• Most of the pieces on the table are mostly have been moved to the dummy.

• They continued adding the flounces on the dummy.

• The different layers of the coat was so thick that made it even harder to sew them together

• The dressmakers assembled the final panel of the skirt.

• They continue working on the skirt basque.

• The taylors working on the top section, finishing off the embroidered tulle that soon has to be fitted on the red silk jacket.

• They kept working on the layer of the skirt until they got the desired outcome.

• After that, they continue finishing up the top and the shoulders

• They also kept fixing the jacket and the collar as there were already too many layers of different fabric that made the jacket and the collar so thick. so it takes some time for them to finish the jacket out

• Now they assembled the skirt and the jacket together.

A day before the show

• To finish it up the dressmakers put some pads under the basque which is the secret of the iconic shape of the bar jacket

• Now the dress is done and ready to make its entrance to the haute couture show!

Reflection

It was really interesting to watch the behind the scene of making the dress. It made me realize that the most hard-working people in the industry are the pattern makers and dressmakers because they are the ones who are in charge to turn the designer's vision into a reality.

Aside from that, he also demonstrated a tutorial on how to mark the dress form using tape and this is the result after following his tutorial! 

Reflection

Since draping is something that I have never done before, I was pretty confused on how to mark the dress form but it was actually a lot simple than how I was processing it. We basically just how to mark the dress form according to its natural shape of it. Even more, we also can change the lines and mark the dress form according to the desired design!